Explores how the country has changed for travellers coming there and for the local people. In Albania's capital, Tirana, he learns how a monument to the late dictator has been repurposed and redesigned for a new generation, before meeting a chef who once fled the country and has now returned to put a new twist on traditional Albanian cuisine. In the country's southern region, Qasa visits the little-known archaeological treasure of Butrint, before attempting to take part in a swim to Corfu in memory of those who fled the same route during Hoxha rule.